DIY: Engine Building: EJ251 with STI Rods/Pistons and Head Work - Page 14 - Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community: RS25.com
 
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DIY: Engine Building: EJ251 with STI Rods/Pistons and Head Work
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:16 AM   #131
TdotSubie
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Great write-up, it has been very helpful.

One question though. How come you put assembly lube between the block and the bearings? The bearings aren't supposed to move, the crank spins on the bearings. Wouldn't this promote spinning a bearing, which is bad?
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:10 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TdotSubie View Post
Great write-up, it has been very helpful.

One question though. How come you put assembly lube between the block and the bearings? The bearings aren't supposed to move, the crank spins on the bearings. Wouldn't this promote spinning a bearing, which is bad?
It doesn't really promote spinning but yes that is a mistake when I took the photo.
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:22 PM   #133
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First off thanks so much for this thread! It has helped me immensly.
Second I'm having trouble making the tool to pull the wrist pins outs, So far I have 4 tries and two ruined flatheads, I heated them up as hot as I could with a propane torch and started bending them in my vice, But they both broke. I tried it with a cheapo screwdriver and a craftman hoping one would would be more malleable. Do I need to get them hotter somehow?
Thanks
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Old 10-09-2009, 03:51 PM   #134
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Originally Posted by DunDunSkeert View Post
First off thanks so much for this thread! It has helped me immensly.
Second I'm having trouble making the tool to pull the wrist pins outs, So far I have 4 tries and two ruined flatheads, I heated them up as hot as I could with a propane torch and started bending them in my vice, But they both broke. I tried it with a cheapo screwdriver and a craftman hoping one would would be more malleable. Do I need to get them hotter somehow?
Thanks
i've had a couple break.....just get them red hot n glowing...and bend em slowly, bend a little bit, take out of vice, heat, bend, repeat....
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Old 10-09-2009, 04:17 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DunDunSkeert View Post
First off thanks so much for this thread! It has helped me immensly.
Second I'm having trouble making the tool to pull the wrist pins outs, So far I have 4 tries and two ruined flatheads, I heated them up as hot as I could with a propane torch and started bending them in my vice, But they both broke. I tried it with a cheapo screwdriver and a craftman hoping one would would be more malleable. Do I need to get them hotter somehow?
Thanks
I just did this today. I used the method below, because I didn't want to sacrifice one of my tools (i'm like that). I used a ~18" drill bit extension and rubber mallet, and tapped 'em out from the opposite side. Worked like a charm...

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Originally Posted by spitfire999 View Post
Theres actually a method thats a bit easier that I can recommend. Essentially, after you have removed the clips with the needle nose pliers, remove the covers that allow access to the wrist pins on the other side of the block. If you shine a light down that end, you should have a straight path to the pins on the other side. Using a device of your choosing (I had a really long thin screwdriver), just slide it through the block until it makes contact with the wrist pin. A few taps with a hammer and it should come right out. Presto, no need to buy or make any special tool and it takes about 30 seconds.

Hope that made sense.
EDIT:

Oh, and thanks Brydon for doing this DIY. You've done an awesome job with it, and given me (and others obviously) that bit of extra confidence that we can accomplish this and not completely fuck it up. Also, thanks to spitfire for that little pin removal tip.

Brydon + FSM = My future EJ25 OBS
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Last edited by djfunk; 10-09-2009 at 04:46 PM.. Reason: kiss ass remarks required
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:37 AM   #136
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So, finally got to the "split the block" step. Wow. What a PITA! I beat on the seam for hours with a rubber mallet; nothing. I was straining to keep from prying at the seam. Kept telling myself, "You know not to do it. Stop thinking about it.". So I started looking for areas, away from the seam, to get some leverage. Finally I found one on the backside. I used my breaker bar to get the back started:




Once I got that part seperated, the whole back end started with ease. Got it seperated all the way to the front, bottom. But then the front, top wanted to be a bitch. After beating and beating, with several techniques and tools, I again started looking for leverage. This one was not as easy as the back. So finally I got creative with a 3" c-clamp:




Hope these can be of use to someone else. 9 year old FujiGlue is some tough shit.
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Old 10-29-2009, 11:06 PM   #137
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I did something similar. I used a scissor jack and put it in the bell housing. I opened it up slowly and it worked! And I didn't damage the bell housing where the jack was!
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:39 PM   #138
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what crank is used? is there any modifications needed if its the stock ej251 crank with sti rods and pistons? whats the compression ratio down to?
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:11 PM   #139
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quick question can you use phase 2 sti pistons and rods with a phase 1 crank and block?
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Old 11-05-2009, 04:46 PM   #140
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i love every moment it were verry informative thank you guys
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