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Oil pan removal and replacement
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:56 AM   #1
SixPillar
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Default Oil pan removal and replacement

Good morning sir, from upstate ny and pa....salt and rust vill.


Question question question?

Are there any videos out there about removing or replacing your oil pan?


2004 impreza ts 2.5 4cl, 5spd

My oil pan is rusted and leaking from the front bottom. I have the replacement coming Monday I have the cork gasket, oil filter and oil, socket set, ramps, and jack all ready to go.

I want to make a short how to video for the forum. Can you guys help with do's and donts ?

I've never did this before but have watched 3 videos online. Only one was for an impreza and they all mentioned loosening mounts and jacking the engine up an inch.

I feel comfortable doing this if it's as simple as some threads make it seem but I'm not a mechanic. I want to take good pics or video to help others so can you just give me tips to look out for and things to avoid doing. P.S money is a big issue that's why I haven't paid a shop and are hoping this one is a DIY.


Thank you in advance.

Jawad

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Old 03-24-2014, 06:30 AM   #2
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I don't think they changed the crossmember design between 2000 and 2004, so I'll be the first to warn you about the PITA rear 4 bolts. You'll need to unbolt the engine mounts and pitch mounts and lift the engine as much as possible to be able to access them. You HAVE to use a universal joint, and threading them back in is... Unbelievable.

Unless they changed the xmember to have holes in it like the Legacy ones.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:38 AM   #3
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If you didnt get one from subaru, really check it well to make sure it is exactly like yours. I had a friend get some off ebay that were NOT the same.

I have always used fujibond to seal the pans, not the cork gasket. The pan needs an oring too.

Also the front of the pan is the oil pump, so be ready for that to be what was leaking not the pan. (it gets sealed with fujibond too)
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:40 AM   #4
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First DON'T.

DONT USE THE CORK GASKET. Use a liquid gasket, like Fuji bond.

First DO

Do drain the oil first....i also find its much easier to work on the oil pan when the engine is removed.....less headache for me...
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Old 03-24-2014, 12:08 PM   #5
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So you guys recommend I do not use the cork gasket

I should use Fuji Bond

I should check the o ring

I should check the oil pump to see if its leaking

Is there anything else you guys can think of that would make this job really difficult for you or you would tell someone not to do it.


Lastly other than loosening the motor mounts jacking the engine and the transmission is there anything else I should be worried about

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Last edited by SixPillar; 03-24-2014 at 12:16 PM..
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hydrochloric View Post
I don't think they changed the crossmember design between 2000 and 2004, so I'll be the first to warn you about the PITA rear 4 bolts. You'll need to unbolt the engine mounts and pitch mounts and lift the engine as much as possible to be able to access them. You HAVE to use a universal joint, and threading them back in is... Unbelievable.

Unless they changed the xmember to have holes in it like the Legacy ones.

Hummmmm so 4 bolts total?
Anything else?


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Old 03-24-2014, 02:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SixPillar View Post
Hummmmm so 4 bolts total?
Anything else?


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4 bolts that are covered by the crossmember. There are 10-14 bolts total holding the oil pan in (can't remember how many exactly)
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:39 PM   #8
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Okay. I'm a bit worried its too much for a guy like me but I really want to give it a shot.

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Old 03-24-2014, 02:41 PM   #9
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Thanks for all your advice

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Old 03-24-2014, 10:29 PM   #10
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Really the only issues you'll have are keeping the engine's surface clean of oil long enough to seal the fujibond against it, and those four rear bolts. Good luck...
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