Umm, I just noticed this product on a few websites and such. Anyone have it? What does it replace? It just confuses me and I'm wondering if it'll make my car handle better (well, I know it will, but WILL it?).
Fengrr!
The Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit from Whiteline is designed to raise front roll-centre geometry by using new special ball-joints, while maintaining original bump-steer by using new tie-rod ends. Changing front suspension geometry by raising roll-centre, results in substantial increase to roll resistance and significant reduction of suspension compression of outside front wheel during cornering through improved weight transfer distribution. During cornering, this leads to significantly reduced understeer through reduced front wheel compression, as well as improved steering feel and precision and vehicle stability.
It replaces both tie rod ends and ball joints. The difference in constructions mainly in height.
The ball joints basically lowers the control arm back to the optimal position as if the car was at stock height (realitively). It is designed as a solution (among others) for when a vehicle is lowered pass the expected OE tolerance and thus its optimal roll center is compromised, which results in more chassis roll. More commonly this is visually when the control arm is no longer parallel with the underbody line. It also reduces camber loss under cornering by raising the roll center.
Roll center is an invisible point drawn from the intersection of lines all paralleling from different components the front suspension. I do not recall what these were. You can search around NASIOC for more information. There should be an explaination for roll center (you can do google as well, but find one with a MacP suspension setup). Even Whiteline themselves made serveral informative statements in regards to the geometry solution with this kit.
-phill
-paK +2
The ball joints basically lowers the control arm back to the optimal position as if the car was at stock height (realitively). It is designed as a solution (among others) for when a vehicle is lowered pass the expected OE tolerance and thus its optimal roll center is compromised, which results in more chassis roll. More commonly this is visually when the control arm is no longer parallel with the underbody line. It also reduces camber loss under cornering by raising the roll center.
Roll center is an invisible point drawn from the intersection of lines all paralleling from different components the front suspension. I do not recall what these were. You can search around NASIOC for more information. There should be an explaination for roll center (you can do google as well, but find one with a MacP suspension setup). Even Whiteline themselves made serveral informative statements in regards to the geometry solution with this kit.
-phill
-paK +2
If you don't mind putting your reading glasses on, and occasionally getting out your slide ruler, some good discussion (as well as some of the nerdtastic detail bickering you've all grown to love) here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1155654
Lots of posts from the whiteline guys directly. And diagrams and such.
Lots of posts from the whiteline guys directly. And diagrams and such.
Just installed mine, figured i'd bump this thread.
![Image]()
You can see physically what it does in this picture. It returns your front control arms closer to their original position keeping your suspension geometry in better shape.
Driving wise, it gives a little more steering response when cornering and perhaps some snap oversteer if you are not careful.
You can see physically what it does in this picture. It returns your front control arms closer to their original position keeping your suspension geometry in better shape.
Driving wise, it gives a little more steering response when cornering and perhaps some snap oversteer if you are not careful.
I got off my duff and checked the rulebook. :lol:
I'm paraphrasing, of course, but it says altering the location of the linkage points for the sake of geometry definitely lands one in SM.
. . . which is ok with me, because I make so few events these days that I'll run in RNP just to stay out of the way of people who are actually competing.
I'm paraphrasing, of course, but it says altering the location of the linkage points for the sake of geometry definitely lands one in SM.
. . . which is ok with me, because I make so few events these days that I'll run in RNP just to stay out of the way of people who are actually competing.
Its a rather solid piece using OEM styled bits... I'm not sure where the 6-gun kits were failing at, but I dont see any potential problem areas with this kit.jonGF8 said:
SO this is really for lowered cars... and should not be installed on stock ride height. (Though I have the SPT springs)?
The new 6gun kits do not break. I've had mine for over 6 months of hard autoxing abuse and they are still perfectly intact.
Yes they do benefit your car even at stock ride height.
I've also ridden on 2 cars, 1 with the whiteline and my own car with the 6gun kit , that had similiar mods and there was a big difference from driving the whiteline vs the 6gun. The 6gun understeered less at any given point of a turn. I could push the car harder and stay on the throttle for longer.
Yes they do benefit your car even at stock ride height.
I've also ridden on 2 cars, 1 with the whiteline and my own car with the 6gun kit , that had similiar mods and there was a big difference from driving the whiteline vs the 6gun. The 6gun understeered less at any given point of a turn. I could push the car harder and stay on the throttle for longer.
Cool, didnt think anyone else would be interested in this. Ive been waiting for Whiteline to make this for a long time. Im a Whiteline whore.
I think this gave as much extra steering response as the steering rack bushings themselves.
I think this gave as much extra steering response as the steering rack bushings themselves.
I put the roll center kit on just before the subie challenge.
Amazing stuff... I have basically no understeer anymore... You can still get the car to scrub if you go into a corner too hot, or try to turn in under WOT, but if you set things up right, the front end bites and you can get a decent amount of oversteer on the way out of the turn.
It is a little twitchy on the street with -2.6 front camber, but you get used to it fast.
I love it.
-- Dave
Amazing stuff... I have basically no understeer anymore... You can still get the car to scrub if you go into a corner too hot, or try to turn in under WOT, but if you set things up right, the front end bites and you can get a decent amount of oversteer on the way out of the turn.
It is a little twitchy on the street with -2.6 front camber, but you get used to it fast.
I love it.
-- Dave
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
