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My proof that DIY grounding kits work

99K views 104 replies 43 participants last post by  bue car  
#1 · (Edited)
I just bought a 96 Impreza L. When I bought it, all the grounds and main 12v wires were significantly corroded and for the most part shitty. I decided to take voltage measurements as I changed things. At the end of this thread will be pictures of my DIY grounding kit mod.

All voltages were recorded at low idle with the car warmed up, lights/radio/heater turned OFF.

When I say "cleaning" I mean CLEANING. I take a dremel and bring the whole thing down to bare metal with a die grinder attachment. This is no sissy wire wheel or sandpaper job.

Before any attention: 13.2v
After Cleaning stock 12v wires: 13.5v (+0.3)
After Cleaning stock grounds: 13.8v (+0.3)
After DIY 8g grounding kit: 14.2v (+0.4)

Now for the grounding kit:


The kit cost $14. It would have been $10 except I got too much wire. I bought 15 feet and ended up using 7 feet. I would buy between 8-10 feet if you want to do this mod. The wire was $0.47 a foot which to me is CHEAP. If you go with 10 gauge it's about $0.35 a foot which would make this insanely cheap. I went with 8g because for me it's go big or go home! (Within reason)

Also, in my pictures, I show 8g ring terminals and 6g. This is a MISTAKE. Get TWO packets of 8g ring terminals if you want to do this. They will work on all 10mm bolts and 12mm (with a little bit of coaxing).

All wire was 8g stranded copper wire from Home Depot. The insulation is gas and oil resistant, or so it states. I had heat-shrink laying around so figure this in for your cost.

The grounds:


Alternator > Chassis

Intake Manifold > Chassis
Block > Chassis
Battery > Chassis


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extended washer reservoir bolts and metal spacers
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FINISHED (stealthy eh? :naughty:)

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Diagram showing where I went with the wires
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Alternator ground:
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Battery ground & hidden alternator ground:
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Each of those fasteners have a ground behind them (intake mani + battery):
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Block ground:

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VOLTAGE BEFORE
WARMED UP @ LOW IDLE WITH LIGHTS/RADIO OFF

13.83v

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VOLTAGE AFTER
WARMED UP @ LOW IDLE WITH LIGHTS/RADIO OFF

14.13v

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:naughty::naughty::naughty:
 
#26 ·
very cool. I went to a local speaker place, and bought 10ft of 4 gauge wire, and a bunch of terminals. I did a grounds + positive on battery terminal to alt.

my write-up found here : the big "3" upgrade +1 - CTSUBIE.com- Connecticut's Subaru Team

-B
Good stuff! Thanks for the link. I wonder if I would notice a difference if I used 4g wire. You gained 0.7v and I gained 0.4v with a grounding kit... but I gained 1.0v with all my mods so neener neener haha :blol:
 
#30 ·
Low idle isn't really indicative of much, the alternator performs very unpredictably. Rev it up to around 2500rpm for an accurate voltage measurement :)

To discover how much voltage is actually being eaten up, measure the difference between the alternator and the battery, put the positive terminal of your volt meter on the alternator post and the negative on the postive of the battery. Anything more than 0.5V means you have major grounding problems!

For best results, do this test with all accessories turned on (lights, heater, defroster, etc)

FWIW, the voltage regulator in your alternator is set to 14.4V
 
#31 · (Edited)
^^ i'll try the above..

i took my multimeter out of its plastic pack today, the last time i used one of these things was in grade 10 electronics class.. i didnt have a beard back then.

so after a few clumsy pickings i got the following by measuring the voltage across the + and - terminals on the battery

idle cold 14.6

idle warm 14.1

idel warm + every electrical anything turned on and the OEM deck (radio) blasted to full

13.8~9 (kept jumping)

any signs, or is my car in relatively good health?
 
#32 ·
looks good from an objective standpoint but it's really hard to say because your battery could be in better condition than mine and vise versa.

Your car is well within healthy specifications, but it's entirely possible that you'll pick up some electrical performance with a grounding kit, or even just cleaning your stock grounds and 12v leads.
 
#33 ·
looks good from an objective standpoint but it's really hard to say because your battery could be in better condition than mine and vise versa.
Unless you have an extremely unhealthy battery (to the point of trouble cranking), the battery shouldn't come into play when measuring voltages with the car started. The alternator is providing the voltage, not the battery.
 
#34 ·
i have a chart from my data....

me on another forum said:
I have been very annoyed by my lights (interior and exterior) dimming a good bit when my car is idling, I ran across the "Big 3" on nasioc and decided to try it out to see if i could lessen/eliminate my problem. Well i broke out the multimeter to see if there was a change with the last component installed. results were as follows


the battery only didn't change so its only listed once (didn't expect it too ether)

the Big 3 consists of:
1. Additional Engine to Chassis ground wire(s)
2. Additional Chassis to Negative battery terminal wire(s)
3. Additional Alternator to Positive battery terminal wire

The ground kit i made really heavily hit on points 1 and 2 but i completely ignored number three as it never crossed my mind.

I used the "ground" wire from my amp wiring kit that i used to make my ground kit from because it was a different color


Got a "Max" type fuse holder from Walmart for $8 and it has a 100amp fuse in it
 
#35 ·
i just finished a semi-light grounding mod

i cleaned all my grounds, and added a line between the alternator ground and the negative terminal,

and one from the IACV to the chassis

my idle voltage is now 14.22

with everything turned on, its at 14.10

3000 rpm + everything on, 14.22~.24


:color:



also the voltage between the alternater + and the battery + reads at 0.06~7, is this fine? or should i add another line there?
 
#36 ·
looks like you gained 0.1v at idle which is measureable... and that's good.

The whole point of me measuring voltage at idle after changing things was just to PROVE that there was a benefit to doing the mods. It wasn't meant to be the be all end all information about exactly how grounding makes your car's electrical system perform better.