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My proof that DIY grounding kits work
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:13 PM   #1
Taiden
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Default My proof that DIY grounding kits work

I just bought a 96 Impreza L. When I bought it, all the grounds and main 12v wires were significantly corroded and for the most part shitty. I decided to take voltage measurements as I changed things. At the end of this thread will be pictures of my DIY grounding kit mod.

All voltages were recorded at low idle with the car warmed up, lights/radio/heater turned OFF.

When I say "cleaning" I mean CLEANING. I take a dremel and bring the whole thing down to bare metal with a die grinder attachment. This is no sissy wire wheel or sandpaper job.

Before any attention: 13.2v
After Cleaning stock 12v wires: 13.5v (+0.3)
After Cleaning stock grounds: 13.8v (+0.3)
After DIY 8g grounding kit: 14.2v (+0.4)


Now for the grounding kit:


The kit cost $14. It would have been $10 except I got too much wire. I bought 15 feet and ended up using 7 feet. I would buy between 8-10 feet if you want to do this mod. The wire was $0.47 a foot which to me is CHEAP. If you go with 10 gauge it's about $0.35 a foot which would make this insanely cheap. I went with 8g because for me it's go big or go home! (Within reason)

Also, in my pictures, I show 8g ring terminals and 6g. This is a MISTAKE. Get TWO packets of 8g ring terminals if you want to do this. They will work on all 10mm bolts and 12mm (with a little bit of coaxing).

All wire was 8g stranded copper wire from Home Depot. The insulation is gas and oil resistant, or so it states. I had heat-shrink laying around so figure this in for your cost.

The grounds:


Alternator > Chassis

Intake Manifold > Chassis
Block > Chassis
Battery > Chassis












extended washer reservoir bolts and metal spacers





FINISHED (stealthy eh? )



Diagram showing where I went with the wires


Alternator ground:




Battery ground & hidden alternator ground:





Each of those fasteners have a ground behind them (intake mani + battery):





Block ground:





VOLTAGE BEFORE
WARMED UP @ LOW IDLE WITH LIGHTS/RADIO OFF

13.83v







VOLTAGE AFTER
WARMED UP @ LOW IDLE WITH LIGHTS/RADIO OFF

14.13v




Last edited by Taiden; 04-18-2010 at 08:04 PM..
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:21 PM   #2
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^^ you liar! The picture clearly states 14.13!!! Not 14.15 like your lies claim! J/K, good work man.
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:22 PM   #3
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Nice! That's comforting news to me.
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:23 PM   #4
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Finally some real information. Good work.
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:23 PM   #5
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i know my next modification! ten bucks. not bad at all.
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:24 PM   #6
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I just recently did this.... it helped allot!
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:27 PM   #7
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Nice, deffinitly visiting home depot tomorrow, though I probably could have checked this as well since I have a nice un-opened volt reader in the garage! ha!
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reality_storm View Post
^^ you liar! The picture clearly states 14.13!!! Not 14.15 like your lies claim! J/K, good work man.
aahaha sorry mistype! it was going between 14.18 and 14.12 so I feel confident saying 14.2

just updated with a diagram of where everything went
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taiden View Post
aahaha sorry mistype! it was going between 14.18 and 14.12 so I feel confident saying 14.2

just updated with a diagram of where everything went
Do you think using gold connectors would make a difference?
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Old 04-18-2010, 07:38 PM   #10
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Do you think using gold connectors would make a difference?
Yes. silver can tarnish. alunimum is too soft and when heated up will expand. coper works great as well but also will tarnish very easy.
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