My supercharger build: 97' Legacy

[anothernord]

After nearly 5 months, the build is complete! There is still other small things to do, but overall it is complete. She starts, idles, runs, and drives fantastically!

Current status:



Project beginning:


I have been researching forced induction for a long time, and now that I have time, I have decided to install an Eaton M62 supercharger into my 97' Legacy Outback. I will be running 6 psi of intercooled boost.

Mockup:


The project car:





Parts list:

-Eaton M62 roots type supercharger (positive displacement)
-2006 WRX TMIC
-Turbo XS RBV-H34 Bypass valve
-2006 STi fuel pump
-RalliTEK Perfect Power 6 piggyback EM
-NGK BKR7E-11 plugs (one step colder)
-Custom double power steering pulley
-Innovative LC-1 Wideband O2 setup

Skidd inspired me to take on this build with his own SC project on a 2000 RS. My engine is a Phase I 2.5L DOHC, which makes my build a little tricky.

So I have been gathering parts and knowledge over the last few months, and today I got a little present in the mail thanks to ebay, an Eaton M62 supercharger from a 2001 Mercedes Kompressor.

I will not just be slapping this on my car, I intend to do it correctly. Although I want to keep cost down as much as possible, there is one thing I did splurge on; EM. I bought a used RalliTEK Perfect Power 6 piggyback ECU complete with all the accessories needed. I also snagged a set of one step colder spark plugs to help avoid detonation, as well as an STi fuel pump.

So today I started the build, first by bending the power steering lines toward the IM for more clearance, as well as making a few cardboard mockups of the mounting brackets.



I have determined that the ABS pump will have to be moved. There just isn't enough width to seat the SC in and still have it clear the hood.
Also, I moved the alarm speaker, and the charcoal canister to the back of the engine bay.

If you see some glaring error in my plans please tell me. :grin: I like to take advice, suggestions, and questions. I'll be updating this thread from time to time.

[Skidd]

Saweet!!!
It arrived today huh?

[Spudchucker]

Yay! I was wondering when we'd get the next SC project going

Good luck, and ask a lot of questions!

[brdrhopper]

im am on the fence right one on doing either the super of turbo not sure yet let the research begin lol i will be fallowing this and asking questions

[anothernord]

Ok, so moving this pump isn't going to be fun. I'm thinking, like what you said, Skidd, to use flexible lines, and I'll cut the existing lines, flare the ends and install fittings (brass?) then put the pump in the fender. Any other ideas?

[Skidd]

Don't move it. Put 90deg elbows on the 2 input lines, then cut and run a pair of SS braided lines from the hard lines. If you can keep the SC close to your intake, it'll clear y our ABS pump. Mine is close, but does not hit. Infact, having only bent the input lines down, there is only about 1/2" to 3/4" of clearance. But, it's enough. Note, I have GroupN motor mounts, so I get less motor movement than stock.

[Spudchucker]

Yeah I can't say too much about the pump from experience, but i can say that half of the hard lines in my engine bay are no longer perfect 90* bends from the factory anymore lol. It's amazing how much these things can be bent by hand if you need to gain an inch here or there. Just makes sure you make no sharp bends if you do shove things around as that will obviously fatigue the metal. I think the ABS lines are steel though, so they're gonna be a pain for you to work around.. I'd just do what Skidd said because I'm pretty sure it's been done a few times now and definitely works.

[Sarra]

Just a word to the wise about ABS hard lines.

1) ABS hardlines are distance calibrated, relocating the ABS pump is going to be difficult because if you change the length of the hardlines, the ABS may not function properly.
2) ABS hardlines are bend-happy. Feel free to re-bend, straighten them, whatever.
3) If you do relocate your ABS pump, rerouting the wiring should be easy.
4) There is a tool specifically made for bending the hardlines you can buy if you need to do lots of bending. I suggest picking this up if you will be relocating the pump a significant distance.

I'd suggest leaving it where it is, and bend the lines coming out of the top of the pump over towards the passenger fender for more clearance.

[anothernord]

Ok, thanks for the great info everyone. I can tell you that the DOHC timing belt cover is huge. It sticks out a good 1.5 inches past the block in all directions. So I lost all my clearance there. I tried it many different ways, and I have to move the pump at least 2 inches, otherwise the top of the SC won't clear the hood. I'll be gone till Fri, so I'll have time to think about it.

[Skidd]

Another option, that might not look as sexy, but might be the easiest.
Cut a hole in your fender just big enough to slide the pump through. But, instead of cutting and extending the lines, just bend/push the pump out into the fender as far as it'll slide.
You'd have to fab up some sort of mounting brackets, but this way, you won't have to move the pump and you won't have to cut/flair/extend the lines. If what Sarra says about the lengths being true, it might be the best choice of all. P.S. I've seen builds where people did move their ABS pump for various reasons. Some, just to clean up the engine bay. In those builds, they had all re-made hard-lines. So, it's doable. But, I can't say either way about the effect of the hard line lengths on the pump.