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Fitting a Crawford oil seperator to a N/A Subie with cruise and the stock airbox

10K views 44 replies 16 participants last post by  steven765  
#1 · (Edited)
Well let me just say this was no easy task.

This all started after I called I-speed about a SRS30 reflash. They mentioned that an oil seperator would be a good idea. Now they sell them too, but the truth is I am getting alot of blow-by so I agreed. I had a catch can already, but it did nothing.

So I started looking at seperators ..the way they work and so forth. I found they're often used on small aircraft like Cessna's that also have flat engines. I've also heard Porsche uses them too. I guess one characteristic of our engine configuration is they do tend to churn oil up into a healthy mist.

So anyway I found a Oil Sep here on RS25. Another poster had it but ended up not using it so he sold it to me for $175. A good deal considering retail is $368.

The problem was it was designed for a top mount intercooler setup. Well the other type is for a front mount IC. Neither would work for me though because the TMIC unit mounts where the cruise currently subsides and the FMIC unit where the airbox is.

So after I got it I tried to use the bracket it came with, but to no avail. So I removed it. After that the mods just kept on coming as you can see...

Here are the mods to the Oil Sep. I removed the welded-on bracket and put a 90Âş at the bottom port...
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The mounting bracket I fabbed...
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The brackets and clamps covered with shrinktube...
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Fitting the bracket using existing holes...
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Here's what I've dubbed the MkII "F" assembly. The first one was really rough and this one was too convoluted and flexy with the rubber hose in between the fittings...
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Here's the MkIII "F" assembly. This one is all brass. It fits, looks, and works much better...
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Here's a shot of the top. You can see the washers I used as spacers. I'd like to get a solid spacer made eventually...
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I'm proud of this. I made my own wraparound clamp using sheet aluminum and shrinktube. It works great to keep the hose away from the throttle linkage...
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...and here's a finished pic...
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Now with this in I can keep the oil out of the intake tract and in the block where it belongs. Since oil tends to bring down octane and I want to use the leaner fuel maps of an SRS30 reflash this was a necessary step to keep the car from detonating and also to get the most out of the fuel.

update...

OK here's what the AO sep looks like now. I went one step further and gave it it's own breather filter. Before it vented back into the airbox. Though most of the oil went back into the motor there was still a small amount accumulating in the airbox. It wasn't enough to really affect anything, but I want to supercharge eventually and I don't want any oil going through it hence the separated breather filter. So far so good....
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update #2

Here's what the engine bay looks like now....
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With an open element I found during the colder temps the oil fumes were being drawn out of the engine and accumulating in the engine bay. Then when the vents are turned on it would suck the oil fumes into the cabin... yuck.

So I changed to a different oil breather....
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Nothing's ever easy and neither was this. I got this breather from Pepboys. It's a PCV style breather which means it comes with a pcv valve and the breather itself is empty. This worked for what I needed though. The top screws off too making things much easier. So I pulled out the PCV valve, inverted the rubber grommet and inserted a brass elbow from Lowe's. I then got an oil breather element that looked like it would work from Autozone. It did. You can see the top of the A/O sep goes to the oil breather. What you can't see is where the other hose goes. It just goes down and vents to atmo near the AC drain. Nothing has come out of there but fumes so far which are at present not coming into the cabin...oh happy day :) ...and if they do I'll just make the vent line longer


Breather with element installed...
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Breather element from Autozone...
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Update #3

Well oil started to collect in the vent hose. It did take a while and it wasn't very much, but that meant more room for improvement. I enlarged the port after reading somewhere (I think in a car mag) it will help by slowing velocity when the block builds up pressure. I went from that small 3/8"fitting to a larger 1/2" fitting I reamed out further, then drilled and tapped the oil breather. So far so good. I don't really even see residual oil in the vent line.

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#2 ·
Nice Job man looks great and I had a feeling that you were going to have to fab something up. It just diddnt look like an easy fit with that factory tab. And yeah I won that thing at a Subaru Car show so I'm glad you are happy about the deal.
 
#3 ·
Thanks.

I knew I'd have to get creative too. I guess if someone really wanted a simple install they could go with something like an Injen intake which should give them room behind the TB to mount the FMIC Oil Sep. After all the work I did to my airbox though I wanted to keep it.

Hey I didn't know you won it....well at least you have luck. :p Cool! I guess we both made out. :)
 
#6 ·
Thanks Super, well this is the first new car I've ever owned.... sooo let's just say I'm fussy... :D

I've never let the car get dirty LOL. Plus the garage helps...


Tnice thanks for the compliment. I'm really happy with the way it turned out too.

The best part is I've been driving all crazy the last few days...taking turns at high rpm to see how it's working.

I pulled the top port hose today and not even a hint of oil. I was happy about that. The car is idling lower and better too. My guess is because one obviously the oil is not getting sucked into the engine intake, and two is I think because the intake manifold doesn't have to pull vacuum through the block anymore like it did with the OE configuration. This is a great albeit expensive mod, but it's nice not not to keep having to add oil.

A couple years back a friend of mine blew his engine in his 2000 RS during an autocross due to a low oil level. I wouldn't be surprised if blow-by was the culprit. Bill at Crawford told me that if I autocrossed with the higher redline from an SRS30 reflash I'd have to check oil levels after every run to be safe if I stuck with the OE PCV system or even a catch can. His advice is actually what prompted this install in preparation for cams and a reflash.
 
#10 ·
So if I install one of these, will my spark plug wires get upgraded too? lol. Very nice work though. I've been thinking about installing one of these starting with replacing the pcv since mine looks like it's leaking due to bad hose fitment.
 
#11 ·
So if I install one of these, will my spark plug wires get upgraded too?
Do you believe in magic?... ;)

LOL...yea they're Kingsborne wires. Good stuff. They have different colors and wire diameters.



Yea now that I have put some real miles on the car since installing the oil separator I've noticed oil consumption has lessened significantly.
 
#12 ·
Can you explain exactly what is connected to where?

I've been looking at buying the IxizConcept separator due to how much blow by I've been having. However, all of these A/O seps are expecting a turbo configuration and I haven't been able to figure out how to plumb one to an engine that only ever sees vacuum.
 
#16 ·
You know this is actually a good question. I don't know why I didn't post what went where considering I had a hell of a time figuring it out for myself as the only instructions available were for FI applications.

Here ya go...

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I know the pics are a bit rough. I do better with metal than paper or in this case photoshop.

Port 1 goes to fresh air.
I hooked it into my airbox where one of the valve cover hoses were originally installed. I suppose it could be run to it's own independent air filter instead to completely isolate it from the intake tract.

Port 2 goes to both valve covers so you need a "tee" fitting too make that work.
In stock configuration the manifold sucks air from the PCV valve. The valve covers are actually inlets for filtered air coming from the airbox. The air goes in at the valve covers then exits at the PCV valve. The way I understand it Port 2 is simply filtered air going into the block via the valve covers so it can circulate through to the "F" assembly.

Port 3 goes to the top of the "F" assembly. This is where the oil vapor/air coming from the engine block enters into the seperator.

Port 4 goes to the bottom port of the "F" assembly. This is where the coalesced oil drains back into the block.
 
#13 ·
Got a question. I looked on ebay, and all i see is a 3.5 elbow like yours. i wonder if it will fit. I shall measure tomorrow.
 
#21 ·
Hmm... I'm getting about the same amount of oil loss (qt/1000) as you under roughly the same driving conditions. I have a air-compressor-type a/o sep/catch in the PCV system right now. It only is willing to fill the can about 1/4". I suspect that, after that depth, it simply sucks the separated oil back out again. When driving hard, it'll make that 1/4" in about 100mi. I wonder if simply moving the outflow from my system to just before the throttle body, rather than the intake manifold, would slow oil consumption until I can afford a proper A/O sep like the Crawford or Ixiz?

Stupid a/o seps are waaaay too expensive :(
 
#22 ·
Yea A/O seps are really expensive.

Maybe one will turn up if you keep an eye out...that's what I did.

I had a catch can before. It was useless. It was empty and I was still using oil so I know what you mean.

You could try capping the line going back into the manifold and putting a small air filter on your separator instead. I've seen people do this with vented catch cans. They run the PCV hose to the can and cap the other side. That's what this guy did...

http://www.rs25.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1622969&postcount=536

I have a feeling your sep will fill up fast if you do this though. I wanted the A/O sep because I knew otherwise I'd be emptying a can all the time.
 
#23 ·
I have a feeling your sep will fill up fast if you do this though. I wanted the A/O sep because I knew otherwise I'd be emptying a can all the time.
Exactly. We just took a week trip in the mountains of Western North Carolina. Literally every single time I got out of the car I had to pop the hood and dump the can and it was STILL consuming oil.

Of course, I was driving so hard I burnt 1/2 the tread depth off a set of Potenza RE-01Rs in a week... :devil::burnout:
 
#29 ·
Ahh yes the reflash....

Well plans have changed on the SRS-30 reflash for a couple reasons. The main reason is I-speed is no longer doing reflashes on 2004's. In fact EM on an '04 is a huge PITA. The only options I have now are PP6 or a Hydra EMS. I'm not crazy about either really. Piggybacks have never given me that 'warm and fuzzy' and the Hydra is too damn expensive for cams-intake-exhaust.

The cams are a different story. EM aside, if I get them done I go from STX to SM. Now I've finally got the car sorted so that's it's actually quick in STX (locally) so cams on the back burner for now as well.

I'm still very happy I got the A/O sep though. It's so nice running a two-day back-to-back autocross with a co-driver and not having the oil level in the engine drop.

IMO best reliability/lifeline mod you can do.

They weren't available when I did my car, but now if I had to do it over again I would not over look the Grimmspeed A/O sep too. It's a slick design and a lot easier to install then my sep was.
 
#30 ·
I saw the Grimmspeed A/O butttt... As we "want" is fresh air instead of vapors of the oil, i just don't see how that is a great setup unless its not sucking from the crankcase/oil filler tube. I didnt research it much but just saw the design on it. Just found a crawford used for 1000miles for $200 from a local guy.
 
#31 ·
I hear ya, but its doesn't suck air from the oil filler tube. That's where it drains oil back into the block. The vent line goes to the airbox on an N/A application. You could completely isolate it as well by taking the vent line and giving it a dedicated breather I suppose.

Either Crawford of Grimmspeed you should be good2go. Just another option is all.
 
#32 ·
Will def have to look into the plug gasket issue but the A/O seems like the issue to be dealt with first on the agenda. My Suby tech said the oiled boot issue will hold.... for now

Just wanted to ask about "Port 2" on the A/O. This piece in particular:
"Port 2 goes to both valve covers so you need a "tee" fitting too make that work.... The valve covers are actually inlets for filtered air coming from the airbox. The air goes in at the valve covers then exits at the PCV valve. The way I understand it Port 2 is simply filtered air going into the block via the valve covers so it can circulate through to the "F" assembly."

This is also setup standard on the '02 RS, ya? I'm a bit lost on that piece and that coupled with you having an '04 RS, just thought I should ask. If I have it right, what port 2 is doing is filtering the released air/oil vapor coming from the block that stems from air trickling through the valves and then into the block?

And can you by any chance post a pic of where Port 1 installs into the airbox? "Where one of the valve cover hoses were originally installed."

Only other thing is where can I pick up those fine looking brass fittings? :D
 
#33 ·
Um you know what. :confused: I just realized I haven't undated this thread in a while.
I've actually changed things quite a bit. For one thing the "F" assembly is gone and in it's place I put the PCV valve back in. On top of that the oil drain return out of the A/O sep is now tee'd off the valve cover hose on the right bank. I also had to add a second PCV valve to turn the drain into a one-way system so oil doesn't push up through the valve cover port and into the A/O sep during hard cornering. I also added a second filter off another tee to prevent a vacuum into the airbox at heavy throttle. uggh LOL.

This set-up is a work in progress. The point was to keep the oil in the engine, but allow the vapors to run through the intake so they don't stink up the engine bay then get sucked into my vents and stink up the cabin. It works now better than it ever has and I need to post pics, but I can't at the moment. When I can I will probably redo a lot of the first post so it only shows what I have now which is like the 5th or 6th version.

Once I can reload Vista on my laptop I can use Photoshop again and I will update everything, but it may take a few weeks. Right now I'm using Ubuntu and it's photo manipulation software sucks.

As far as the ports go...
The top port is the vent.
The second from the top goes to both valve cover ports via a tee hidden under the airbox.
The third from the top port now goes to the PCV valve in the block.
The forth and lowest port is now tee'd into the right bank (passenger side) so the oil can drain back into the engine.
 
#34 ·
Opened up the intake tract. From snorkel/pressure reservoir (whatever you wanna call it) to PCV. Even split open the torque box... nothin. Only a slight smattering of oil residue on the valve cover breather holes. And that from from 8 years of usage no doubt.

So it would appear my quart of oil is disappearing either out my exhaust, which would explain the seemingly rich running extra black outline on my tailpipe (which could also be the "catalyst inefficiency" p0420 I've had for the last year). Or getting burned up in the head. Could be a little bit of both but just hoping it's not the rings so I'm going in for another compression reading tomorrow. Was A-OK 6 months ago... so... :confused:

In summary, I guess this will prob be a pass on my desire for an AO. But I still think it's an invaluable write up so I'd def say carry on with the update thread, Maestro. The public will love you more than they do that Aluminium taped TB.... Speaking of - Any chance on outfitting me with the same 3'' elbow glued to a taped up torque box? I don't have the time to tinker with mine and I wouldn't want to drive to & fro from work without a tb & air filter till I get it right hah. Throw me a figure and I'll see if I can match it