ej20k

[youngbrazee1]

So I have been doing a little research and so far I have learned that everyone who goes with the ej20k engine spins rods bearing for mainly no apparent reason. So to fix this would one have to rebuild the bottom end right from the start.

[ScoobyRoo]

Do more research :P There's a big reason why 20k's are spinning bearings (hint) goes along the same lines as the early us wrx's loosing second. "User Error"

[Tim.Flat4]

another ej20k bites the dust

[youngbrazee1]

Tim I already read that whole thread...I cant say that engine management systems are the problem or oil so I am stuck...

[IETVTS2]

In any situation a rebuild before installing a swap is always a good idea at least to upgrade the parts to forged internals with a machined polished and lightened crank if you have the money. You never know what your getting when you buy used.

[elislider]

the problem is really an combination of things that just so happened to affect the ej20k swaps the most.
1. using crappy USA gas
2. some of the ej20k ECUs are very aggresively tuned, namely the 6S ecu which runs 17lbs boost and has very advanced timing.
3. using oil thats too thin, like synthetic when it should really have thicker oil like 10w40
4. taking the engine to its limits (7500rpm+). the 6S ecu fuelcuts at 8250...
5. hard cornering at high revs

so when you put that stuff together then youre pretty much gonna break something. as for rod bearing, if you dont have an oil pump that can perform above 7500rpm or higher, and you are using thinner oil (sythetic...) and you are using 92 octane when you should be using 96 or 98, and lets say you take a corner at AutoX at 7000rpm.... well thats gonna fry something

plus generally if you buy a JDM swap they were drained (if only partially) before shipping so they are dry inside, and heating and cooling in containers, plus getting knocked around, etc etc. Its always a good idea to just replace bearings and seals on a used swap engine because its gonna cost a lot less than machining it or buying another later when it breaks after 500 miles.

that having been said, i am in exactly this situation because i have a used ej20k swap with an STi RA block and the 6S ecu and the best pump gas i can get is 92 (oregon) and im on a budget of a full-time student. so the best i could afford (time, ability, and cost-wise) was to replace the head gaskets on mine. i drive the car on the 6S ecu with 92 octane... but i have the STi oil pump and using 10w40 valvoline. i dont take the car above 5000rpm either just to be safe. its fun and i only JUST got a PowerFC in the mail the other day and havent been able to tune it yet

[BigWig711]

my ej20k was running strong for two years after i got it swapped. without a tune and on crappy 91 gas i ran it harder than i ever should have.

a few months ago after a really good tune, it started over heating. the problem was blown headgaskets. however, the motor isn't stock by any means and i should've had it tuned immediately. most ej20ks go the way of the dodo by way of owner error.

i'm replacing the headgaskets soon with upgraded ones and the motor should be good to go for quite a while.

i'm using torco synthetic oil, and a power fc and water methanol injection.

on 91 pump with meth, a deadbolt 16Gtd06 with a huge bellmouth, she put down 315whp. more than enough for a daily driver.

[2slo4u]

My 1S ecu runs 18psi and its not the "agressively tuned" version. I replaced all bearings in mine before assembling and use 10w30. It sees 7500rpm every now and then. I'm able to get 93 octane fuel almost everywhere I go. I've had a tapping noise that hasn't been verified for quite a while. Hopefully its not a rod bearing, lol but seems like it would have let loose by now. Here's a little ej20k lols for you:

[ScoobyRoo]

awesome video! I too have an ej20k, I bought years ago when I was 17 not knowing the difference but haven't swapped it in yet, I just checked and mines a 6S as well

[MPREZME]

Originally Posted by elislider

the problem is really an combination of things that just so happened to affect the ej20k swaps the most.
1. using crappy USA gas
2. some of the ej20k ECUs are very aggresively tuned, namely the 6S ecu which runs 17lbs boost and has very advanced timing.
3. using oil thats too thin, like synthetic when it should really have thicker oil like 10w40
4. taking the engine to its limits (7500rpm+). the 6S ecu fuelcuts at 8250...
5. hard cornering at high revs

so when you put that stuff together then youre pretty much gonna break something. as for rod bearing, if you dont have an oil pump that can perform above 7500rpm or higher, and you are using thinner oil (sythetic...) and you are using 92 octane when you should be using 96 or 98, and lets say you take a corner at AutoX at 7000rpm.... well thats gonna fry something

plus generally if you buy a JDM swap they were drained (if only partially) before shipping so they are dry inside, and heating and cooling in containers, plus getting knocked around, etc etc. Its always a good idea to just replace bearings and seals on a used swap engine because its gonna cost a lot less than machining it or buying another later when it breaks after 500 miles.

that having been said, i am in exactly this situation because i have a used ej20k swap with an STi RA block and the 6S ecu and the best pump gas i can get is 92 (oregon) and im on a budget of a full-time student. so the best i could afford (time, ability, and cost-wise) was to replace the head gaskets on mine. i drive the car on the 6S ecu with 92 octane... but i have the STi oil pump and using 10w40 valvoline. i dont take the car above 5000rpm either just to be safe. its fun and i only JUST got a PowerFC in the mail the other day and havent been able to tune it yet

^^^^^ Truth


This one is wise beyond his years.