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DIY: Stock 10.1" brakes to WRX 11.4" brakes

68K views 196 replies 89 participants last post by  Razor7  
#1 ·
WRX Brake Upgrade

Hello! Today, you will read about how to go from 2.5RS stock 10" brakes to the 11" WRX brakes!

The 02+ WRX and the 2.5RS share the same brake mounting brackets, and these are the parts that you'll need:

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2 - WRX brake rotors
2 - WRX caliper brackets
17mm Wrench and Socket
14mm wrench and socket
Lubing Spray
Rust remover
Grease
Very ornate swear words
Possibly 4 new bolts: 17mm head with a thread pitch and length of 12mmx1.5

Here is a before shot of the wheel with the stock RS brakes.

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First thing you'll want to do is to break loose your lugnuts and then lift your vehicle up in the air and remove your wheels.

You'll see here what the stock components look like.

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The first thing you'll want to do is remove the caliper. There are two 14mm bolts holding the caliper onto the stock caliper bracket at the sliding pins. I couldn't get a good shot of it but they're very easily seen. Once you've done that, your car should look like this without the brackets and the brake pads. Don't lose the brake pad shims! You can reuse them!

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After you've removed the caliper, set it aside, DO NOT LET IT HANG. SET IT AGAINST SOME OF THE SUSPENSION BITS. YOU DO NOT WANT THE BRAKE LINE TO STRETCH. The next part is probably the most annoying. Next remove the stock caliper bracket. There are two 17mm bolts holding the bracket in at the top and the bottom of the bracket behind the brakes. Here's a really crappy picture of the top bolt.

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This is the part where the lube and the swear words are really handy. It's not common knowledge, but swearing at things is actually a lubricant. All of my power and strength and several hydraulic tools is what I needed to remove these bolts, only because these bolts had never seen the light of day and in its 8 year life span never removed.

Next is to remove the stock rotor. This will be tricky and will require even more swear words and anger should your rotors have been conjoined onto your hubs. If they are, you're going to have to use a hammer and tap away at the rotor until it loosens itself. Eventually, I had to use a floor jack pressed against the frame and the back of the rotor and tapped it with a hammer until it came loose.

Anyway, once removed, you've reached the halfway point! Hooray! Now's the time to take a quick break and clean your wounds, because you probably will have some by now.

This is the stock rotor sitting next to the WRX rotor:

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And this is the stock bracket sitting next to the WRX bracket:

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After you're done breaking, fit the WRX rotor over the stock hubs. If you buy your rotors from the dealership, they'll be covered in a grease. This grease is to prevent rusting. It should also have high temp paint on it. If you buy it from someone off the internet, get them turned and scrub the center and the vents free of rust and spray them with high temp black paint. 500 degrees high-temp paint should be good enough.

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Then, remove the slide pins from the old bracket and give them a little grease and slide them into the new bracket and give them a few slides into the new bracket.

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Set the new bracket onto the hub and bolt those 17mm back into place. Becareful not to crossthread!

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As you can see, it's now night time, the problem was I didn't know I would have to replace the 17mm bolts, so I had to run around town looking for them as Subaru was closed. :(

Now you're ALMOST finished!

The RS brake pads can be reused, I still had a lot of meat left on mine, so I decided to reuse them. The WRX rotor will be thicker than the stock ones so you'll have to push your calber's pistons back into the caliper to fit the caliper back onto the assembly. Once that's done, it should look like this:

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Go back and make sure everything is good and kosher and you haven't forgotten anything. Tighten the 14mm caliper bolts back on and that's it! Look how much of a difference the brakes have with the clearance of the RS wheels!

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Look at how much of a difference in clearance there is!

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Aaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd you're done.

Some good stuff if you ask me. If you have any questions just let me know!
 
#3 ·
The bolts holding the caliper bracket to the hub. The ones I showed in the picture.

I had to replace them because they were so rusted. I broke them loose by using a floor jack against a 17mm wrench. I lift the car up off the jackstands. That is how stuck they were. Eventually after a lot of swearing and hammering, they broke loose. They were stripped and almost just solid pieces of metal.
 
#5 ·
Yes.

It brakes much better now than it did before. My stopping zones are about 20 feet further than Before.

However, the biggest gain I got was less brake fade. The bigger brakes gave me more surface area to dissipate heat and cool. In our last run, my friend with the stock brakes was fading halfway through our drive, while my brakes were still good and fresh until the end of our 4 hour drive through the mountains, THEN I started feeling the fading after having pushed very hard on them.
 
#6 ·
Looks good.

How about the rears?

Or changing out the calipers too?

I was going to start a thread asking whats the biggest brakes you could fit in the stock 16'' wheel. I just not done searching yet.

Thanks Joe
 
#8 ·
The biggest brakes you can fit under the stock 16" wheel are the MY06+ WRX 4 piston front, 2 piston rear brakes. However if you go with the 2 piston rear brakes, you'll want to switch it up to the Legacy H6 rotors which are bigger and vented or the WRX rotors as they are vented, though the same size.

The rears are the same size as the WRX, it's just that the rotors aren't vented.

I had thought about switching out the calipers because mine seemed a little crusty. I've done the dust boots on calipers on other cars, it's not fun. It is so not worth it in fact that I would rather go and buy a new set of calipers from the junk yard in better condition than actually replace the boots. Yes, I am willing to sacrifice longevity over rebuilding a caliper, that's just how I roll.
 
#13 ·
With your DIY all I would need to add are WRX calipers to upgrade my 99OBS 1 pots correct?

Also, are there certain model years which fit on the OBS/RS? I seem to recall there being a restriction of 04 or earlier.

Great write up btw. Thanks.




Ever use a crowbar to pry something open? Did you notice that the longer the crow bar, the easier it is to pry?

Or how about a breaker bar? the bigger the breaker bar the easier it is to turn that lug nut?

Well the further out you are from the axis of rotation the more torque you can apply to it.

It's a bit of a leap, but because the rototrs themselves are bigger the pads are farther out from the axis of rotation and are able to apply more torque for the same amount of force (your foot on the brake pedal). I believe this increases friction and allows you to brake harder.
 
#18 ·
Nice write up. Good advice about the cussing and the hammer. They both come in very handy when getting those rotors off. I did the rear Legacy brake upgrade while I was at it, and sprayed everything black to give it a more clean appearance.
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#21 · (Edited)
02+ WRX sized brakes will not fit under stock 15's.
15" Gravel Rally rims usually clear Subaru 4 pots or WRX 2pots with no problems.

Rs (or 15" rimmed Legacy/Legacy Outback) 2pot brakes are bigger than OBS/L 1-pot front brakes, will fit under stock 15" rims & are a nice/cheap upgrade for those cars.

Both of our OBSs have Legacy Outback (15" rimmed) 2-pot brakes up front.
 
#23 ·
I got the full set of 03 wrx brakes off a guy who upgraded...200 for everything( calipers,brackets rotors,lines and pads) And they only had 20k miles on em :) its a DEFINATE upgrade in braking. Pedal feel is much improved.

I'm just wondering how brake bias is effected...
 
#34 ·
The rear WRX brake rotors are the same that you have already. If you want something differently, look for the JDM WRX or the 94 Turbo legacy. They're the same diameter, just thicker and ventilated.
 
#35 ·
Kudos for whoever found this out originally. I just did this with my 97 OBS. found a set of '04 WRX calipers on ebay, got some cheap-ass wrx rotors, even scored a set of 2002 WRX stock 16" wheels (mine were 15"). After it was all said and done, I was out about $430 for wheels/tires, and the brake upgrade. Very happy with it! Drove it around all day with no issues. Cheap and easy upgrade..... DO IT!
 
#36 ·
has anyone determined exactly how brake bias is effected when WRX brakes are swapped in ? I know that when I installed the wrx front brakes on my Legacy that the Pedal feel was MUCH improved, and the car stopped with much less effort...an overall much better drive....BUT it totaly threw off my brake bias, ulitmately increasing my stopping distance.

Stopping distance is usualy only improved by adding more stopping power to the REARS....as our cars are settup somwhere along the lines of 90% front/10% rear braking straight out of the factory...this is great for inexperienced drivers....but adding more REAR braking force is how you truly DECREASE your stopping distance on a Subaru.
 
#37 ·
How do you know if totally threw off your brake bias?
How much was your stopping distance increased?

What do you think about the point that with more front brake, you get more weight transfer forward onto the front axle (hence less on the rear), negating the need for more rear brake, since they would just lock up even more easily with less weight on the rear axle.

In the end, I believe that tires effect braking distance way more than brake size. If your factory brakes are strong enough to lock up your wheels, then you dont need anything bigger. Now, if you are racing, larger brakes can deal with the heat MUCH better than the small ones, decreasing or eliminating fade.
 
#39 ·
very interesting...

Heres another point:
If I upgraded the front and rear brakes on my 97 impreza to 2002 WRX equipment. Wouldn't I essentially have the same braking package as the WRX, hence better stopping distance and better heat capability?
Maybe I should go all out and install the WRX master cylinder and proportioning valve (unless it is built-in the master cylinder)?

Basically I am replicating the OEM braking system on a WRX and I dont see how that could hurt braking.
 
#40 · (Edited)
this is how I figure it... when you bury the brake pedal, the brakes press into the rotors slowing down the wheels. Your first initial limiting factor is traction from the front tires as they bite into the road ahead of you as the car dives forward. Your ABS keeps the front brakes from locking up....BUT have you ever seen someone panic brake ina subaru? the ABS simply does NOT apply to the rears, because they are NOT locking up....this means they are NOT performing at this maximum potential ! the stock subaru system only delivers less then 20% of the braking force to the rear of the car.

Have you seen someone panic brake in a BMW? the entire car SQUATTS down on the road, and the rear of the car really bites into the road.

Now, a race car is set up to unleash ALL of the braking potencial at all times. I'm assuming that most race cars are set up more like 60% front, 40% rear braking bias...give or take.

Now this being said, somestimes it is necessary to panic brake on a turn. Now the more bias you put into the REAR brakes, the more the rear of the car is going to slide out from under you! A "normal" driver simply does not how how to compensate for this controlled slide, and freaks out, probably resulting in a crash. This is why the stock subaru braking system delivers MOST of the braking force to the front brakes. Is it the MOST effective way to utilize your braking system ? NO. But is it the most effective way to get the car to stop without sliding out of control on corners? probably...

When you upgrade your front brakes, you are increasing the front brake bias on an already front biased system...usually DECREASING your stopping distance. Even if you upgrade the rears too...you are still only performing @ a less than stock level or stopping due to your master cylinder and prop. valve.

The best simple upgrade is to just upgrade the rear brakes. SS lines help stiffen the pedal feel and help on both front and rear as well.
 
#41 · (Edited)
I have never seen a car squat in the rear under hard braking. I dont understand what you mean by that. Every time a car brakes (BMW or Yugo) weight is transferred forward, causing the front to squat.

I understand the need for front bias, same reason FWD cars always understeer, safety.
I am trying to replicate the WRX braking system in my GF, fronts, rears, and master cylinder and prop. valve.
With all of that in place, I believe I will have factory bias (which favors the fronts slightly, which is fine) and better overall braking.
Here is some info:
Proportioning valve specs
(GC/GF impreza-with drum rears)Split point: 427 psi, reducing ratio 0.4
(WRX 2002) Split point: 285psi, reducing ratio 0.3
Taken from factory service manuals.

The proportioning valve section operates by transmitting full input pressure to the rear brakes up to a certain point, called the split point, and beyond that point it reduces the amount of pressure increase to the rear brakes according to the reducing ratio.
Whats interesting is that the WRX uses less of its rear brakes (earlier split point, and smaller reducing ratio).
So, does that mean that it is better to have the GC/GF proportioning valve because it makes more use of the rear brakes? Hmmm.......I dunno.

p.s. Traditional ABS never applies brakes, only reduces (by pulsing) pressure at the wheels that are locked up.