Besides adding that this is a fantastic and cheaper alternative to better, more neutral braking, instead of bending back the dust shield you can just cut the "lip" off of the shield so the rotor fits no problem.

That is, if you can source a cutting wheel.

 

^^That works too. How hard is it to cut the heat sheild? It bends pretty easy.

I bought these to try to keep up/balance out my 4 pots.

 

easy to cut, basically one pass with the wheel and it slices right off. You don't need it anyway so why not get rid of it. Plus it probably saves like 1-2 lbs. lol

I still have stock front brakes but I really like the braking feel for a daily driver. Plus its cool to look at a side profile of the car and the front and rear brakes are practically the same size now.

 

I actually ripped my dust shield off. Just used a hammer to bust the spot welds. Did this mod a couple years ago, with an OE bracket and rotor. I still have it installed.

Hammer wins:

Broken pieces:

 

I read somewhere...maybe sportcompact car, the removeing the headsheilds was a bad idea. They cooked something, sorry it was a long time ago. Not saying you will have any problems.

my wagon wants your wheels

 

theres an easier way to remove the rotor than using a pry bar. if you have 2 spare 12mm bolts. just start threading them into the two holes that lie between the studs. the rotor will start to get pushed out. takes a min or two to get the rotor off this way.

 

I thought i read somewhere that the bolts were 8mm?

 

Thanks!

 

one of the best mods ever!!!
I did this to my car along with wrx front brakes (same process as above but using USDM WRX brackets, and rotors insted of H6).
I complamented it all with SS brake lines, dot 5.1 fluid, home made master cylinder brace, and EBC red stuff brake pads.

Wrx rotors vs stock 2.5rs

H6 rotors vs stock 2.5rs

basically because you are Increasing the diameter of the rear rotors more than the front you still get shifted braking to the rear, but with better braking up front as well.
And the only thing the lines, brace and fluid did for me was gave me a more dependable lock point at all temperature ranges.
And the only thing the drilled rotors got me was a fancy look….. that’s all, no more, no less!

The only thing bad about removing the dust shields is debris can easily get stuck in your brake brackets…. That’s about it.
I have been running my set up with no dust shields, and powder coated calipers, brackets, and rotors with no issues for 30000 miles (there were some rumors that the powder coat would melt under heavy braking… un-true).

 

leak of information....

2000+ legacy all had these brakes oem in teh rear.

 

^^^^^^^^:mamoru:

 

time to hit the junkyard then.

 

Nice write up - easy, inexpensive brake upgrade
But i dont think this will work on a 98 RS. The 98's caliper is held to the caliper bracket with one pin and one 14mm bolt. The pin allows the caliper to pivot away from the rotor when you remove the single 14mm bolt; I guess it makes the brake pads easier to change.

It may be possible to buy a new 14mm bolt and rubber boot, and then this upgrade would work.. Has anyone done this on a 98?

Also, are the rear brake pads on the legacy and rs the same?

 

Nice write up - easy, inexpensive brake upgrade
But i dont think this will work on a 98 RS. The 98's caliper is held to the caliper bracket with one pin and one 14mm bolt. The pin allows the caliper to pivot away from the rotor when you remove the single 14mm bolt; I guess it makes the brake pads easier to change.

It may be possible to buy a new 14mm bolt and rubber boot, and then this upgrade would work.. Has anyone done this on a 98?

Also, are the rear brake pads on the legacy and rs the same?

yes,
um that is
I am still using rs pads in the rear and they fit and worked just fine, the only diffrence in the rs rear brake set up and this one is the bracket is a little longer to accomidate the larger roter.
I was unsure of this too so I checked out EBC's website and they listed the same rear pads for both applacations.

Does the 98 still mount the bracket to the hub the same way ?
I would think that you could score some rs calipers or legicy calipers at the same time as the brackets.

 

if u need some h6 calipers i have some for 50 bux i just took off for brembos

 

leak of information....

2000+ legacy all had these brakes oem in teh rear.

Yeah, H-6 is just a misnomer, in reference to this mod. Makes it sound cool though, I guess. All futuristic and crap.

I think when the mod first got popular, many folks thought the larger 11.3" (290mm) rear rotors were specific to the H-6 model. That's probably how it snowballed.



Oh, and yeah the bolt trick for popping rotors off of the hubs is probably one of the greatest hints I've ever read, on a car forum. Talk about a lifesaver!

 

Question, I came across this kit that includes 2 legacy rear rotors and 2 caliper brackets: http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/products/brake-kit-rear-upgrade-p-423.html is this a decent price? Also what pads are we to use for the legacy rear setup? Finally, besides trimming of the rear backplate, any other modifications or pins, clips needed? Thanks

 

Personally, I'd just buy the brackets and have them shipped.

Next run down to your local napa store and pick up the rotors. In the end it will be cheaper. The rotors are heavy and shipping will be expensive.

 

Thanks, what year legacy rotors do I get and what pads?

 

Also can I use my existing RS rear pads to work with this setup?

 

I think I just asked for 2000 legacy rotors. Your RS pads will work fine, but nows a good time to upgrade.

 

did these a while back but had to laugh at myself when I did mine. at step 2 when removing the old rotors remember to release the e-brake.... took me about 15-20 minutes to realize I had mine on, released it and the rotors slid right off

 

Sorry one last question, do I need the legacy 2.2 or 2.5gt rear rotors or will any 2000 year legacy rear rotor will do?

 

Any one?

 

ok so you ONLY replace the brackets and rotors...NOT calipers or pads ??? how in the world does this increase rear brake bias without chaning the pad contact area or force behind it ??

 

^^^

It increases brake torque because the centrifugal weight is pushed further out, thanks to larger diameter rotors.

A bigger pad is not needed for greater stopping force.

 

strange...

looks like a good junkyard mod to do...

 

Yes, they are 8mm x 1.25 pitch. Vince was probably referring to the size of the wrench needed, which is usually 12mm on an 8mm bolt.

 

MY rears didn't have the bolt holes to help the rotors off, so i had to undo the adjustment screw on the ebrake (in the drum) that helps huge!