Step 6
Pull the axle out of the green piece. Note how the rings are positioned, flat side in, the tapered side out.

Step 7
Wipe off the excess grease or spray it down with the brake cleaner. Remove the snap ring with the pliers. Be careful when you remove it, it's under tension, if it slips it will go flying. The triple knob metal piece will now slide off. Note the position of the metal ring.

Step 8
Clean the axle again after you remove the universal. Slide the boot over the axle. You can slide it past where it normally sits to give yourself more room to work, or put it on regularly.

Step 9
Clean all the parts from the joint, spray them down really good. Make sure there is no old grease on or in them. You'll use less brake cleaner if you wipe off as much of the excess grease as possible.


Step 10
Slide the universal back on to the axle and reinstall the snap ring. In the picture I did not grease the rings as in step 11. Once the green piece is degreased you can clearly see where the metal ring sits.

Step 11
Grease the metal rings and universal. Put the rings back on the universal. Tapered side out, flat side in.


Step 12
Squeeze the grease into the green piece. Carefully slide the axle back into the green piece. You don't want the metal rings to fall off.


Step 13
Slide the retaining ring over the axle and reinstall it in the green piece. Try and position it so the opening in the ring is under a lip.

Step 14
I pushed the axle into the green piece to get some more grease on the universal. Slide the boot into its proper position. Really work the joint around to get grease on the joint. It should move around smoothly. Keep in mind the boot is not clamped on at this point.


Step 15
I used hose clamps because i dont know where to get the proper tool to tighten the clamps that came in the kit. On the other boot i used a ground down pair of pliers to squeeze the bump to tighten it. I feel that the boot is tighter on the axle using the hose clamp. I didnt have a small clamp on had, i had to run down to the auto parts store and get one. I installed it on the car.

Step 16
Reinstall the axle per solbey11s' front axle replacement

Step 17 drive the car and make sure there are no strange noises or anythng out of the ordinary.

 

I can't believe no one has posted up about your thread. Nice writeup.
I'm bumping this to the top, even tho it's been 2 years. I'm about to do this myself

 

Repost of the pics would be nice if you still have them!
Thanks

 

can you re post the pics. it is very useful info !!

 

here are some pics

Here's where it puked

Here's the rip

Unbolted the sway bar and ball joint. Rubber mallet helps

This is the angle i used to knock the pin out og the axle (used an extension to reach)

Pulling off the clamps

Cut off the boot

removed ring that holds it together

Cleaned up a bit. snap ring is visable here. (get the right tool - i didnt have it and it was a PITA)

Heres the contents to teh beck arnley kit

Stock (cut) boot next to the new one

 

bump, i just recently found out both my cv boots up front are ripped, i thought it was oil from the driver side head but it was grease from the cv boot that got all under my car. How bad is it to drive around with little to no grease in there? i know its probably a stupid question but i need to get around!

 

Eventually if you keep driving on it, they will start clicking. Mostly during turns. Then they will click in a straight line, and eventually the ball bearings will give out and you won't be able to move.

...I've done it before... :lol:

 

Sorry, I haven't been checking up on the thread. I don't have the pics any more. I uploaded them, then deleted them off of the camera. I should have used photo bucket.

Thank you for the pictures moogoob!

MCV: You should try and get it fixed as soon as possible. All kinds of crap is getting at the joint and potentially grinding up into an abrasive paste. As long as your axles aren't clicking I think they are still in ok condition.

 

sucks, but i'm down to do it! always a good feeling to fix something and know its good for another few thousand miles anyways ....if i don't F it up lol. thanks for the write up and moogoob for pics!

 

cueball- what kind of grease did u use for the inner cv boots? I am purchasing the beck arnley kit for inner boots and it doesn't come with grease like the outer kit does. hoping to get the stuff by sunday so i can do the install, doubt it though.

 

My cv boot kit came with its own grease iirc. I think any cv boot grease would work though.

 

Looks like I'll be doing this again in the coming days.:bonk: I'll retake step by step pictures again.

 

Awesome write up! I'm going to have to be doing this very soon! Thanks!

Subscribed!

 

Put some more pictures up, should be pretty straight forward.


I probably spent $25-$30 in total to do the latest cv boot. OEM axles are ~$350 from the dealer, axles from the auto parts store range from $50-$100. IMO the auto parts store axles don't have the same quality as the OEM ones, it seems to be hit or miss on getting a good axle. That's why I prefer to change the boot if I can.

 

SOrry to bring this thread back from the dead, but would this work for the boot closet to the outer of the car(one closet to the wheels)? I Need my right boot replaced.

 

good work, ive always wondered how fun and messy it was to do this. i might have to try this the next time my cv joints go. i usually just replace the whole axle. way less messy =] great write up though. dat_dookie, you can replace both inner and outer cv boots. you just gotta buy the correct boot.

 

Thanks for the write up.

A couple things to note for future viewers:

-The steps are basically the same for a 04' Legacy L.
-When trying to pop out the peg that attaches the axel to the transmission, keep hold of it so you don't lose it. Mine flew out like a rocket and now I'm using a long screw and nut instead.
-Be careful with your rubber grease things around the tie rod end and ball joint. If you press to hard on them to remove them, they can crack.
-I know I'll take some flack for this but you can avoid taking out the axel nut and remove the entire axel and steering knuckle if you are fixing the inner boot. It eliminates the possibility of damaging the wheel bearing.
-Took me about 10 hours to do but if I had to do it again would probably take only 3.

 

-When trying to pop out the peg that attaches the axel to the transmission, keep hold of it so you don't lose it. Mine flew out like a rocket and now I'm using a long screw and nut instead.

Those pegs should be replaced when you do this service. They're like $5 or something. Do it and be safe. The way you have it rigged up is awesome if you're out in the middle of a the Acropolis Rally and that's all you have (why on earth you would changing an axle boot is another story, heh). No so great for daily driving if you have access to the right parts.

/rant

 

Inner Oil Seal on hub removal?

Did any of you replace the inner oil seal on the inside of the wheel hub? I was on legacy forum and they said that manual suggest to replace that. Mine looks fine, but I tried to remove that thing even with the claw hammer and is quite difficult with the steering end rod and the hub still attached to the car. Mine looks very intact and I don't want to damage it using the claw hammer. Any tricks to take that out or just leave it in there?

part no. 28015AA080

DIY front cv axle & boot replacement - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums

 

I left the seals alone on the '95 Impreza. The way I see it, the grease inside the bearing is heavy and won't leak out, so the seal is there mostly to keep the dust away. I did grease the seals before re-assembly.

 

I was just wondering why you decided to use hose clamps rather than the clamps that the new boots came with? Do you feel any imbalance in the axles??

 

Didn't have the right tools at the time depending on what clamps came with the kit. I've never noticed any vibrations from using hose clamps.

I have the tool for this style clamp now.

Don't have the tool for this style, wouldn't be too hard to make though.

 

Bump, good write up! May do this instead of replacing the axle from my donor wrx.

Not sure how long the axle ran with a split boot though. Everything feels smooth with no binding, but I guess I'll inspect for wear when I get it pulled open and cleaned up

Thanks again for the write up/info!

 

Comprehensive Explanation

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation, very much appreciated. I especially appreciate the options given for clamps/alignment.
Good stuff!!