Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

DIY: Power Steering Rack Replacment

93K views 107 replies 39 participants last post by  VWscooby  
#1 · (Edited)
This is a quick DIY for anyone that needs to replace the steering rack on your Impreza. This was done on Davids (RS.Wagon) 1994 Subaru Impreza AWD with the EJ18. There may be slight differences in the procedure depending on the year/engine in your car, however it shouldnt be too different.

Disclaimer: If you dont know what you are doing, please dont hurt yourself and take it to a shop. I'm in no way responsible if you hurt yourself or others or damage your car following these procedures. Use at your own risk!

sorry for the poor picture quality, my camera blows :(

here's what we did:

1) Make sure your old rack in completely toast! do this by rallying the piss out of your car in the middle of the night and running over a rail road tie. Make sure a good amount of Power steering fluid is pissing on your exhaust, enough to make smoke come pouring out of your hood.
Image


2) Man up and admit your screwed the pooch. go buy a new rack! (i dont have any pictures of the rallying part unfortunately)

3) jack the car up using jack stands on a level surface.

4) take the front wheels off

Image


5) Take off the castle nut on your outer tie rod ends by first removing the cotter pin and then spinning the 19mm nut.
Image


6) take a brass hammer and tap the tie rod ends out, if needed, spin the castle nut onto the tie rod end again so it sits flush with the beginning of the stud and tap on it, make sure not to damage the threads otherwise your buying a new tie rod end (may not be a bad idea depending on the condition of yours)
Image


7) undo the lock nuts holding the outer tie rod end in place (19mm wrench i think)
Image


8) Untwist the outer tie rod ends from the inner and count the number of turns it takes to come off (this comes in handy when putting them back on). Write this down somewhere!

Image

Image


9)Undo the exhaust manifold. there are 6 nuts holding it on the the heads (14mm deep socket) and two on the cat pipe (14mm bolts/ nuts) you'll need a 14mm wrench to keep the nut on the other side from spinning
Image

Image


10) undo the small black plate seen there (14mm bolt/nut)
Image


11)Undo the front sway bar. there are through bolts on each end link that you can take off and one bolt on each of the two brackets holding it on to the chassis.
Image

Image


12) center the steering wheel and mark the steering knuckle and the input to the steering box. We did this but ended up not using the marks since we put in a new rack. Loosen the bolt clamping the joint onto the shaft. Note: make sure not to spin the steering wheel with the column detached from the rack, you may destroy your clockspring.
Image


13) place a drip pan under the rack if you havnt already and undo the power steering lines. there are 2 lines, one takes a 17mm i think and one takes a 14mm. its impossible to hook it back up the wrong lol. subaru was thinking :D
Image


14) Undo the 4 bolts holding the power steering rack in 14mm i believe
Image

Image



15) drop that nasty rack on the drip pan.

Image


New Rack:
Image


16) switch the necessary hard lines over to the new rack. clean them up, especially the fittings and install new O rings. (no pictures of this step, but its easy, just lay the two racks side by side and swap over)

17) install everything in the opposite order you took it off.

18) fill the PS reservoir with proper fluid (ATF in this case)

19) torque the wheels down etc...drop the car on the ground

20) crank the steering wheel side to side and check for leaks. make sure the reservoir is still at appropriate level

21) test drive time!

22) get a alignment done, you'll need it

Feel free to make comments/additions, i will go back and edit the original post if necessary

 
#5 ·
I NEED TO DO THIS THANKS! <3
your welcome. i'm planning on doing a lot of DIY's in the future, this was my first.


on another note, the rack is under life time warranty, so we may be able to arrange a little switcharu along with a little warranty fraud and get u a new rack for cheap lol
 
#7 · (Edited)
i know i know lol. my camera was being lame tho and the battery would only last for about 3 pictures at a time, so i didnt want to waste battery trying to remember how to do the macro lol. i think the camera is slowly dying tho. its a olympus camedia c-50 zoom. i bought it back in january 2004, so its over 6 years old now. i did just buy 2 new battery's for it on ebay with a 1 year warranty for $6.79 shipped lol :banana:

How much did the new steering rack cost?
it ended up being a little less than $200 including tax and everything from autozone with lifetime warranty. i was trying to persuade him to get a used wrx rack but he wouldnt go for that.
 
#15 ·
How do you take off/install the inner tie-rods? The new rack I bought had them in the box but they weren't installed.

Its hard enough to find a wrench big enough to fit 1 1/4", then its too wide and hits the lock washer :(
you can usually rent a tool at a place like auto zone...or use a big vice grip. lol

and its always easier to loosen that inner tie rod nut when the outer tie rod is still attached
 
#16 ·
great write up, and just in time for me. i did have a couple of questions though.

1)how do you disconnect the input shaft from the rack? in the pic it looks like its just being held in by a large diameter pin.

2)how do the inner tie rods connect to the rack (i.e. screw on, press on, spit and happy thoughts, etc.)?

3)and should i assume that the rack in the pic (from subarupartswarehouse.com) will either not come with the inner tie rods attached or possibly at all (because they are a seperate part number)?

Image


4)and lastly your opinions: OEM subaru rack or life time warrenty autozone rack? i found the OEM for $191 (Subaru Parts Warehouse)
 
#17 ·
1)there is one bolt and nut that squeezes a clamp. i believe its a 14mm

2)i stole this picture off another DIY, but it looks like they just screw in (mine were already installed)
Image


3) I would call the dealer and see what they say.

4) i'm an OEM guy...however autozone's lifetime warranty is almost bulletproof, so if you are going to be rallying your car and stuff like that, i'd probably go for the autozone one, if this is the last rack your putting in your car...i'd probably go OEM
 
#25 ·
a good trick to do instead of hitting the top of the tie rod is hitting the side of it where the tie ride goes into the spindle. if you hit it hard enough the tie rod pops out every time. its a little thing I learned from my auto teacher. that goes for any ball joint you hit the side of that its going into and it'll pop it out or knock it loose
 
#30 ·
Nice writeup. I was thinking of doing this, but I never took pictures from when I did mine. Plus I had the engine out at the time which made it easier to move around :). But I did have to replace the boot on the ball joint because I ripped it accidentally :(, but luckily I was able to pick up a used one and just snap the ring back around it :D.
 
#32 ·
just did this, however it's leaking from the lines that go in near the pinon. i really dont feel like pulling off the headers again so im gonna try the lucas oil stop leak, but if that doesnt work ill replace the o-rings on the lines but i was thinking of just replacing the lines does anyone know how much they are?
 
#33 ·
okay, wtf? the OP says he paid $200 for the rack from autozone. now they are $300. they went up $100 in four months? has anyone come across a new rack for less than $300? Where?

thanks
p.s. im not saying i dont believe the OP. i found them back then for $200 too.
 
#34 ·
i also got my employee pricing....plus pricing changes from region to region, hell even from store to store (not intensionally). i took a call from a store 3 miles away and there was 20 bucks difference between for the same gasket kit. also, this kit was for a 94 L AWD, the RS rack is more expensive.
 
#40 ·
1) Make sure your old rack in completely toast! do this by rallying the piss out of your car in the middle of the night and running over a rail road tie. Make sure a good amount of Power steering fluid is pissing on your exhaust, enough to make smoke come pouring out of your hood.
HAHAHA! I like your style


19) torque the wheels down etc...drop the car on the ground

20) crank the steering wheel side to side and check for leaks. make sure the reservoir is still at appropriate level

21) test drive time!

22) get a alignment done, you'll need it

Feel free to make comments/additions, i will go back and edit the original post if necessary
I recommend firing up your car and turning the wheels back and forth while the car is still on jack stands. This will let the fresh fluid to get into your new steering rack easily with no load on the pump. With the wheels on the ground there is a chance of a pressure spike that could blow out one of your new seals or o-rings and you would have to pull the rack again to fix it.

Nice Write up!
 
#43 · (Edited)
You have a good point.

I was hoping that I could measure the original tie rod ends' position relative to, say, their respective inner tie rod boot. But I guess doing that assumes the part dimensions from the rack mounting holes outwards are all exactly the same on the two racks... may be proper w/ OEM parts, but mine's an Autozone job... Bleh. Past that is more effort than I want to put into it. Alignment it is.

Thanks for the writeup and feedback man.