Subaru Impreza GC8 & RS Forum & Community banner

DIY: Clutch Replacement Pictorial

359K views 197 replies 120 participants last post by  acajr 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Do It Yourself: Clutch Replacement. 1999 Subaru 2.5RS. 5-speed Manual Transmission.

Notes
This pictorial DIY covers complete disassembly and reassembly over the entire job (no "repeat steps in reverse" finish).
Disassembly is covered from Steps 1 to 27.
Reassembly is covered in Steps 28 to 52.
This task could take from 12 to 20 hours, depending on how particular you are with cleaning all your parts.
A helper is needed to work the floor jack to lower and raise the transmission while you steady it under the car.
It is helpful to use the Electrical & Torque Checklists below during reassembly. Check each item off the list as it is completed.

Auto Parts
New Flywheel
New Clutch Disc
New Clutch Pressure Plate assembly
New Throw-out Bearing
NewPilot Bearing
New Clutch Fork Dust Boot (pt # 30542AA040)
New Exhaust Manifold Gaskets (Felpro)
Optional: Flywheel to crank bolts (pt # 800210660)

Fluids / Chemicals
(1) High-Temp (brake) Grease
(4 quarts) Transmission Gear Oil
(1 spray can) Engine Degreaser
WD-40

Service Tools
(1) 2-ton Floor Jack that can reach 19" high minimum
(4) Jack Stands that can reach to 18" minimum height
(1) Subaru scissor jack
(1) Portable Work Light
(3 foot) wood 2x4 (cut for engine support)
Oil drain pan

Hand Tools - Special
(1) Special clutch alignment tool (comes with clutch set usually)
(1) Torque wrench capable of 10 to 110 ft. lbs.
(1) long 1/2" drive breaker bar
(Use 6-point sockets to remove and reinstall all torque spec'd bolts)
(1) 3/16" to 7/32" round flat punch with 1 3/4" reach
(Sockets, Open Ends and Box Ends from 8mm to 17mm)
(1) 13/16" socket (transmission drain bolt)

CHECK LIST: Electrical Connectors encountered
(2) Catalytic converter plugs
(1) Neutral switch plug
(1) Back-up switch plug
(1) Transmission Speed Sensor plug
(1) Transmission Ground terminal
(1) Starter + terminal
(1) Starter Solenoid plug
(1) Engine Ground terminal

CHECK LIST: Torque Specs encountered
Flywheel to crank (8 bolts) 53 ft. lbs.
Clutch Pressure Plate (6 bolts) 11.6 ft. lbs.
Transmission Bell Housing (6 bolts + 2 nuts) 36.9ft. lbs.
Clutch Slave Cylinder (2 bolts) 27.5 ft. lbs.
Trans Crossmember / front (2 bolts) 101 ft. lbs.
Trans Crossmamber / rear (4 bolts) 51 ft. lbs.
Pitching Stopper / front (1 bolt) 36.2 ft. lbs.
Pitching Stopper / rear (1 bolt) 42 ft. lbs.
Drive Shaft to rear diff. (4 bolts/nuts) 23.1 ft. lns.
Drive Shaft enter bracket (2 bolts) 38.3 ft. lbs.
Exhaust Manifold (6 nuts) 22.4 ft. lbs.
Exhaust Hangar bracket (1 bolt) 22.4 ft. lbs.
Mid Pipe Spring Joint (2 spring bolts) 13 ft. lbs.
Transmission Drain (1 mag bolt) 32.5 ft. lbs.

LET'S GET STARTED.







































































































































































END of DIY
 
See less See more
81
#6 · (Edited)
one thing that some of the older model L and brightons owners need to keep in mind, is that there are a few steps in there that are not the same. the main on i could see being the slave cylinder...as we don't have a wet clutch system. and there are only four bolts on the engine.

another thing to add, is that the support H brakcet doesn't need to come off unless you really really want to take it off. also helps to leave it on when sliding the trans out from under the car. also, if your exhaust system is all rusted and you don't want to risk breaking them, you can just undo the entire system and lay it on the ground, there's about 4 hangars, the one bolt on the trans and the header to engine bolts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WRickX
#7 ·
Very well done DIY, thanks!

Depending on what other maintenance/repairs I'm doing determines if I pull the engine or the tranny for a clutch change, but this will definitely get used next time I pull the trans.

Ryan
 
#15 ·
Thanks for taking the time to make a comprehensive write up. Great pics and good suggestions.
One thing you may want to mention is when you're sliding the transmission back on to be sure the small metal shield on the bottom of the engine is slightly bent down so it doesn't prevent them from sliding together. This happened when a friend and I were putting mine back together. We were so puzzled because you can't really see that shield with the engine crossmember in the way. After pushing it down a little they just fell into eachother.
 
#18 ·
VERY VERY good write up. The level of detail in your explanation is spot on.

I will say though, I'll probably never go this route. Removing the engine seems "easier" to me, but I guess that's just a preference...

Again, excellent write up. I'm sure it will serve plenty of people well on here.
 
#24 ·
I've been using this since Friday, so far so good. Kinda in a holding pattern right now, I had to order a few more parts than I thought I would need, including a new flywheel (full story in another thread under "transmission and drivetrain".

I did screw up once. Thought I had a 3/16 punch, but apparently it was a bit larger, as I got it stuck about a centimeter into the axle hub. Took me about two hours to get that out. Not fun.

Using the down time now to clean everything I can get to under the car and what is out of the car.
 
#28 ·
Why in the hell would Subaru ever make that sleeve out of soft aluminum?
The inner sleeve of the throwout bearing is plastic... They could've used a harder metal but plastic = softer than aluminum so they probably betted on the aluminum winning. It helps to have a good clutch fork boot to keep water and dirt out to keep the grease on the snout also, those things will contribute to quicker wear.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top